Matsumoto Castle: Japan's Crow Castle
One of Japan's oldest original castles and a masterpiece of samurai-era architecture
The Black Crow of the Alps
Rising against the backdrop of the Japanese Alps in Nagano Prefecture, Matsumoto Castle earns its nickname "Crow Castle" from its striking black exterior. Unlike the white Himeji Castle that gleams in the sun, Matsumoto's dark wooden walls and black lacquered boards create a dramatic silhouette that has made it one of Japan's most photographed castles.
Construction of the current castle began in 1593 under the rule of Ishikawa Norimasa. The main tower complex was completed in just five yearsâa remarkable feat of engineering that resulted in one of Japan's few remaining original castle keeps. While most Japanese castles are concrete reconstructions, Matsumoto's wooden structure has survived over four centuries.
Architectural Innovation
Matsumoto Castle represents a unique period in Japanese castle design. Built during the transition from warring states to peaceful rule under the Tokugawa shogunate, it combines defensive military features with elegant architectural elements. The main tower appears to have five stories from outside but actually contains six floorsâa design intended to confuse attackers.
The castle features a complex of connected buildings including the main keep, a secondary tower, and a moon-viewing pavilion added during peacetime. This combination of military fortification and aesthetic refinement reflects the changing priorities of Japan's ruling samurai class as warfare gave way to centuries of peace.
Defense Without Moats
Unlike many Japanese castles built on mountains, Matsumoto sits on flat landâa "hirajiro" or flatland castle. This required innovative defensive strategies. The castle is surrounded by a series of moats and walls, with strategic openings for archers and gunners. The interior features steep, narrow staircases designed to slow attackers and give defenders the advantage.
The castle walls are studded with small openings called "sama" for firing arrows and muskets. Square openings were for arrows, while round or triangular ones accommodated firearmsâevidence of how Japanese warfare was adapting to gunpowder technology introduced by Portuguese traders in the mid-16th century.
Surviving the Meiji Restoration
When the Meiji government abolished the feudal system in 1868, most Japanese castles were sold off or demolished. Matsumoto Castle was scheduled for auction in 1872, and it seemed destined to be torn down. Local citizen Ichikawa Ryozo organized a campaign to save the castle, raising funds to purchase it and preserve it for future generations.
By the early 20th century, the main tower had begun to lean dangerouslyâa result of settling foundations. Another citizen-led effort, spearheaded by principal Kobayashi Unari, raised money for extensive repairs between 1903 and 1913. These two grassroots preservation campaigns saved one of Japan's most important historical structures.
The Moon-Viewing Tower
One of Matsumoto Castle's most elegant features is the Tsukimi Yagura, or moon-viewing tower, added in 1635 during the peaceful Edo period. With its vermillion railings and open design, this pavilion was built for the aesthetic appreciation of the moon and has no defensive features whatsoever.
The addition of this purely decorative structure to a military fortress symbolizes the transformation of samurai culture during the Tokugawa peace. Warriors who had once focused solely on martial skills now cultivated arts like poetry, tea ceremony, and moon viewing. Matsumoto Castle embodies this transition in Japanese history.
Visiting Today
Matsumoto Castle is one of just twelve Japanese castles with original keeps and one of only five designated as National Treasures. Visitors can climb the steep interior staircases to the top floor for panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. The castle grounds feature beautiful cherry blossoms in spring and stunning autumn foliage.
The surrounding moats reflect the castle beautifully, especially during the spring cherry blossom season or when illuminated at night during special events. The city of Matsumoto has preserved the castle's surroundings, making it one of the most atmospheric castle visits in Japan.
A Testament to Preservation
Matsumoto Castle stands today because ordinary citizens twice saved it from destruction. In an era when most castles were demolished as symbols of feudalism, local people recognized Matsumoto's historical and cultural value. Their efforts created a model for heritage preservation that Japan would later embrace nationwide.